Frequently Asked Questions

Porcelain slabs cost more because the material itself is denser and harder to manufacture than concrete or sandstone, and the installation requires a more rigid, precisely prepared base. Cutting the slabs also demands diamond-tipped tools. Those material and labour costs combine to push the overall price higher than most alternatives.

Most porcelain patio installations come in at £1,800-£3,200, varying with the area size, slab format and thickness chosen, how much existing material needs removing, and how much groundwork the sub-base requires. Intricate cuts around curves or steps add time and therefore cost.

Porcelain is worth the extra cost if you want a surface that resists staining, frost and fading with minimal upkeep over many years. If budget is the primary concern, Indian sandstone or block paving deliver a good result at lower cost. The right answer depends on how you weigh upfront spend against long-term maintenance. Compare your options

Yes. Porcelain has a near-zero absorption rate, so moss, algae and stains struggle to take hold. An occasional rinse with a hose or pressure washer is usually enough to keep it clean. Unlike natural stone, it does not need sealing.

It depends on the surface finish. Polished porcelain can be slippery when wet and is better suited indoors. For an outdoor patio, choose slabs with a textured or matt finish rated R11 or above for slip resistance. Always check the slip-rating specification before ordering.

Porcelain suits most garden uses, dining areas, entertaining spaces and pathways, provided the sub-base is built correctly and the slab thickness matches the load. Thicker 20 mm slabs handle foot traffic and light furniture well. If you plan to drive or park on the surface, a different material is more appropriate.

Most Indian sandstone patio installations come in at £1,400-£2,800, depending on the area size, slab thickness, and ground preparation needed. Larger patios with complex cuts or significant base work will sit toward the top of that range.

Yes, Indian sandstone is a well-established patio material. It is naturally textured, available in a wide colour range, and when laid on a properly prepared sub-base it performs well outdoors. Sealing after installation helps it resist staining and extends its lifespan.

22 mm is the standard minimum for a pedestrian patio. For areas that will take vehicle access or heavy garden furniture, 30 mm slabs are more appropriate. Thinner slabs below 20 mm are more prone to cracking under point loads and are not recommended for full patio use.

A riven or textured surface finish significantly reduces slip risk when wet. Honed or polished finishes are more slippery and are better suited to covered areas. Algae build-up on an unsealed surface increases slip risk over time, which is why sealing and annual cleaning matter.

Yes, but use a wide fan nozzle at low to medium pressure, no higher than 100 bar. Keep the nozzle moving and avoid holding it close to the surface or pointing it directly at the mortar joints. A gentle annual wash is usually enough to keep the surface clean.

High pressure or a narrow nozzle can erode the surface texture and blast out the pointing between slabs. Damage is most likely on unsealed stone or where the mortar joints are already weakened. Low pressure with a wide fan nozzle avoids this. Repointing after damage

Unsealed limestone absorbs water, which causes dark patches that fade as it dries. If the marks persist, the stone may have a mineral deposit or algae beginning to form. A penetrating impregnator sealer applied to clean, dry stone stops water ingress and keeps the surface looking even after wet weather.

Unsealed natural stone is porous and will absorb oil, food, and tannins from leaves fairly quickly. Sealing with a penetrating impregnator significantly reduces absorption. Lighter-coloured stones such as limestone show marks more readily than darker sandstone, so sealing is especially worthwhile on pale finishes.

Sealed limestone needs a brush down and a rinse a few times a year. Re-seal every two to three years depending on foot traffic and weather exposure. Unsealed stone needs more frequent cleaning to prevent algae and staining. Repointing joints every several years keeps the surface stable and prevents weed growth.

Limestone is a sedimentary stone with a smooth, consistent surface and a calm, pale tone. Sandstone has more visible grain and colour variation, from buff to rusty brown. Granite is harder and denser, needing less sealing. Slate splits into thinner layers and suits contemporary designs. Each stone has a different porosity, texture, and maintenance profile.

Natural stone is denser and longer-lasting than most concrete paving slabs, and each piece has unique veining and tone that concrete cannot replicate. Concrete slabs are cheaper upfront and need less sealing. Natural stone costs more to supply and lay but typically holds its appearance and structural integrity for longer. Compare porcelain as an alternative.

It depends on whether the existing base is level, stable, and well-drained. A concrete sub-base in good condition can sometimes be used, but a compacted MOT Type 1 sub-base is the standard for natural stone. The survey checks what is already down and confirms whether it needs breaking out or can be built on.

Sinking or unevenness almost always points to a failed sub-base. If the compacted hardcore or sand bed beneath the blocks was too thin, poorly compacted, or laid over soft ground, it shifts under load over time. Tree roots, poor drainage, and frost heave can also disturb the base. The blocks themselves rarely fail, it is what is underneath that moves.

If the damage is limited to a few sunken or cracked blocks with a sound sub-base beneath, repair is usually the right call. If the sub-base has failed across a wide area, or the blocks are badly weathered throughout, a full relay gives a more lasting result. A site survey will show which applies to your patio. See patio cleaning, repointing and repair for smaller fixes.

Partial repairs work well when the problem is confined, a localised sunken area, a damaged edge, or a handful of broken blocks. If the sub-base failure runs across most of the patio, patching one section often means another sinks shortly after. A survey identifies where the damage stops so you only replace what genuinely needs it.

Block paving suits most residential properties. It comes in a wide range of colours, sizes, and laying patterns, herringbone, stretcher bond, basket weave, so it can match a traditional brick house or a more contemporary garden. The main consideration is ground conditions and drainage, which a survey will assess before any work starts.

Block paving can be matched to your brickwork colour or contrasted deliberately as a design feature. Choosing the right block size, colour, and laying pattern makes a significant difference to how the finished area reads alongside your house and boundaries. Options are shown at survey, before you commit to a material.

Yes. Block paving handles seating areas, connecting paths, and general foot traffic well. Its interlocking structure distributes load evenly, making it durable underfoot. For paths specifically, see garden paths and walkways for how the same material is specified in narrower runs.

Resurfacing works when the base is solid and level but the surface is worn, stained or cracked. If slabs have shifted, the sub-base has failed, or drainage is poor, a full replacement is the right call. A survey will confirm which applies, the base condition is the deciding factor, not the surface appearance alone.

Yes, sections in good condition can often stay. If part of the base is sound and levels are consistent, the work can extend or resurface only what needs attention. A survey confirms which sections are worth keeping before any lifting begins.

An exact match is rarely possible, since existing slabs weather and fade over time. The most reliable approach is choosing a complementary material or running a defined edge detail between old and new. The survey can advise on porcelain, sandstone, limestone or block paving options that sit well alongside what you already have.

Most patio extensions at ground level fall under permitted development and need no planning permission. The exception is if you are in a conservation area, the patio drains onto the ground rather than a soakaway or drainage system, or the area exceeds certain thresholds. Check with your local planning authority if you are unsure about your specific plot.

Small areas can be resurfaced by a competent DIYer if the base is flat and stable. However, getting levels, falls for drainage, and mortar mix right is harder than it looks, and mistakes on even a small area can mean relaying the whole thing. A quote is available so you can weigh the cost against the risk.

Check whether the base is still level and compact, whether drainage is working, and whether the movement is isolated or widespread. Patching one or two slabs makes sense when the rest is sound. If more than a third of the surface has shifted or the sub-base is soft, repair costs often approach replacement costs without fixing the root cause.

Steps suit a modest level change between two existing surfaces; a raised terrace suits a larger drop where you want a usable flat area above the lower garden. If your garden slopes significantly or you want a defined seating zone at a higher level, a raised terrace is usually the right answer. A survey will confirm which approach works for your specific ground.

Yes, steps can be added to most existing patios provided the base is sound and there is enough room for a safe tread depth. The existing foundation is checked before committing to a design. If the base needs reinforcing first, that work is scoped at the survey stage.

No, steps are designed to standard rise-and-going ratios that make everyday use comfortable and safe. A typical outdoor step uses a rise of around 150 mm and a tread of at least 300 mm. The installer sets these dimensions at the design stage so the finished steps feel natural to walk on.

Consistent rise height, a generous tread depth, and a slightly textured or riven surface that grips in wet weather are the main factors. Nosing edges that contrast with the tread also help with visibility. Getting all three right from the outset is more reliable than adding grip strips later.

A raised terrace works well for slopes where cutting a flat area into the bank creates a usable outdoor space. The steeper the slope, the more groundwork is involved, but the principle suits most gradients. A survey confirms the exact cut-and-fill needed for your garden.

If the survey reveals soft ground, buried rubble, or drainage problems, the scope of preparation work increases and the cost rises accordingly. This is why a proper site survey matters before any price is agreed. Skipping that step is the most common reason garden projects run over budget.

Repair works when the base is still sound and damage is limited to a few cracked or sunken slabs. If the base has failed, joints have crumbled across most of the surface, or the path has shifted significantly, a full relay is more cost-effective long term. A survey will confirm which applies before any work is committed to.

Gravel has a lower upfront material cost than paving, but it needs edging to contain it, a membrane beneath to suppress weeds, and periodic topping up. Laid paths in porcelain or sandstone typically cost £500-£1,200 depending on size and material. Gravel can undercut that, but factor in ongoing maintenance before deciding.

Porcelain is low maintenance, frost-resistant, and holds its colour well. Indian sandstone gives a natural, warm appearance but needs sealing periodically. Limestone suits formal gardens and is smooth underfoot. Block paving is durable and easy to repair section by section. Each suits different aesthetics and maintenance appetites, so the choice depends on both.

Path width, material, and route all affect daily usability. A path used for wheelie bins needs to be wider and more robust than a decorative garden route. The survey covers the space and how you move through it, and recommends a layout and material that fits your actual use.

Most installations require excavating to around 150-200mm, removing topsoil, and compacting a sub-base of MOT Type 1 hardcore before any bedding layer goes down. Uneven or sloping ground needs additional levelling work. The exact depth depends on the material chosen and the condition of the existing ground.

The installer surveys the ground, marks out the route and width, then excavates to the required depth. A compacted hardcore sub-base is laid and checked for level and falls. Only once that base is stable and correctly graded does the bedding and surface material go down.

Water pools when the surface fall runs toward the house or a low spot rather than away from it. This is usually caused by settlement, a poorly set original fall, or a sunken slab creating a hollow. Even a few millimetres of dip is enough to hold standing water after rain.

If water sits on the surface for more than an hour after rain, or runs toward the house wall, the fall is wrong and needs correcting. Visible dips, rocking slabs, or puddles that form in the same spot every time are the clearest signs. A survey will confirm whether the base or the surface is the root cause.

Correcting the fall addresses both issues at once in most cases. Once the surface sheds water consistently toward a drain or lawn edge, pooling stops and the level reads flat underfoot. Where a drain is blocked or absent, a channel or point drain may also be needed alongside the re-levelling work.

Yes, once the mortar or bedding has cured fully and joints are set, the surface is safe to walk on. The curing time is confirmed on the day, typically 24-48 hours for mortar beds before normal foot traffic resumes.

Yes, provided the fall is set to a minimum 1:60 gradient away from the building, surface water drains clear of the house wall. This is the standard fall used when resetting patio slabs close to a property. A survey confirms the correct direction and gradient for your specific layout.

In most cases, yes. Lifting and resetting the affected slabs with a corrected bed and fall is enough to solve pooling and uneven surfaces. Full replacement is only necessary when the base has failed across the whole area or the slabs themselves are cracked beyond reuse.

Loose edging almost always comes back to an inadequate base or mortar bed beneath it. If the sub-base was too shallow, poorly compacted, or mixed incorrectly, the edging shifts with ground movement and traffic. Clay-heavy ground makes this worse, as it swells and shrinks with moisture changes. Fixing the surface alone without addressing the base means it will fail again.

Patio edging holds the perimeter of a level or gently sloping surface in place. A retaining wall is needed when there is a significant height difference between two levels and soil pressure would push through standard edging. If your patio sits noticeably lower or higher than the surrounding ground, a retaining wall is the right solution.

Slabs that rock, edges that have sunk or tilted, gaps opening between the patio and the edging, and water pooling where it did not before are all signs of ground movement. Cracks running across mortar joints rather than along them also point to subsidence rather than surface wear. A survey will confirm whether the sub-base has shifted.

A correctly built retaining wall holds back soil pressure and prevents the ground behind it from pushing into or under the patio. It will not fix movement caused by a failed sub-base on its own. Both issues need to be addressed together, the wall manages lateral pressure, while a properly compacted base manages vertical settlement.

Often yes, if the slabs themselves are sound and only the perimeter has failed. The edging course is lifted, the base beneath it is re-compacted or rebuilt, and the edging is re-laid and mortared. If the failure has caused adjacent slabs to drop or crack, those sections will need lifting too. A survey confirms the extent before work starts.

Resetting a single loose edging stone is within reach of a careful DIYer. Anything involving a failed base, retaining wall, drainage, or repeated movement needs proper groundwork skills and the right compaction equipment. Getting the base wrong a second time means the same failure returns, often faster than the first time.

Not if the layout is planned before any fittings go in. A surveyor will look at your patio size, seating arrangement, and existing features to recommend the right number and type of lights. Fewer, well-placed fittings almost always read better than many scattered ones.

It depends on how you use the space. If you sit outside after dark, lighting is a practical necessity. If the patio is only used in daylight, edge detailing, pointing, and border finishes may be all that is needed to make it look complete.

No. Hard-wired low-voltage systems give the most reliable, permanent result, but solar and battery-powered fittings are a viable alternative where trenching is not practical. Hard-wired setups need an electrician and a cable route from the house; solar and battery options do not.

The survey covers the layout, notes where seating sits, and plans light positions around that. Uplighters, recessed deck lights, and wall-mounted fittings each suit different configurations, so the choice follows the survey rather than a one-size approach.

Finish materials and fitting colours are chosen to complement the paving already in place. Whether the surface is porcelain, sandstone, limestone, or block paving, fittings and edging details are selected to sit flush and match the tone of the existing surface.

Yes, provided fittings carry an IP65 rating or higher, which is the standard minimum for fully exposed outdoor use. Cables should be rated for direct burial, and junction boxes must be weatherproof. A surveyor will confirm the right specification for your exposure level.

Yes, if the pressure is too high or the lance held too close. Soft stone such as sandstone can be etched or pitted, and high-pressure water blasts out existing joint mortar, leaving gaps that let weeds in. The correct approach uses controlled pressure matched to the slab material.

Not necessarily. If the joints are solid and intact, a thorough clean may be all that is needed. Check by pressing the mortar with a key, if it crumbles or feels hollow, repointing is worth doing at the same time rather than returning to the job later.

Usually yes, for a standard-sized patio. The sequence is clean, inspect, rake out failed joints, relay any lifted slabs, then repoint. Larger areas or extensive slab relay may need a second visit, confirmed after the site is assessed.

Repointing with a flexible, polymer-modified mortar significantly slows joint breakdown compared with standard sand and cement. It will not last indefinitely, foot traffic, freeze-thaw cycles and tree roots all cause wear over time, but correctly done joints should remain sound for several years.

Most patio cleaning jobs in Cambridge come in at £150-£400, depending on the area in square metres, the surface material and how heavily soiled it is. Repointing or slab repairs added to the same visit will increase the total.

They solve different problems. A deep clean removes surface contamination; repointing restores structural integrity to the joints. If the joints are crumbling, cleaning alone leaves the underlying weakness in place. Most patios in poor condition benefit from both carried out together.

The most common cause is inadequate fall, the surface is not sloped enough to shed water, or a compacted sub-base that blocks drainage. Clay-heavy ground, common in Cambridge, makes this worse because water cannot percolate away. A proper survey will identify whether the issue is gradient, sub-base depth, or the absence of a drainage channel.

Yes, if it is laid with the correct fall and drainage provision built in. A new installation can include a channel drain or soakaway to direct water away from the house and lawn. Simply relaying slabs without addressing the sub-base or gradient will not solve a persistent drainage problem. Patio drainage & levelling covers this in more detail.

If slabs are cracked, sunken, or rocking in isolated spots, repointing or relay of individual slabs is usually enough. If the surface is uneven across a wide area, water is pooling, or the sub-base has failed, a full replacement is more cost-effective than repeated patch repairs. A survey will confirm which applies to your garden.

A full installation covers excavation, sub-base preparation, laying the chosen material, porcelain, sandstone, limestone, or block paving, jointing, and a finished fall to drain water away. Drainage channels and edging can be included where needed. We schedule a site survey and quote all elements before work begins.

Most ground-level patios in a rear garden fall under permitted development and need no planning permission. Exceptions apply if the patio is raised, covers a large proportion of the front garden, or the property is in a conservation area or is listed. Any constraints are flagged during the survey.

Most patios require excavation to around 150-200 mm, followed by a compacted hardcore sub-base and a sand or mortar bed before slabs are laid. Clay ground or poor drainage may need additional depth or a geotextile membrane. The exact requirement depends on what is already there, which the survey will establish.

The most frequent errors are an undersized sub-base, insufficient compaction, and drainage falls that run toward the house rather than away from it. Ordering slabs before confirming the exact area is also common, leading to shortfalls or excess waste. Each of these is avoidable with a proper survey and a detailed specification before work starts.

Confirm the ground level, existing drainage routes, and whether any underground services run through the area. Check that the finished patio height will sit at least 150mm below the damp-proof course of the house. Agree the drainage fall direction, sub-base depth, and jointing method in writing before excavation begins.

Cracking and sinking almost always trace back to a failed or inadequate sub-base. If the hardcore layer was too thin, poorly compacted, or laid over soft ground, slabs shift under load and frost. Tree roots undermining the base and water eroding the bedding mortar are also common causes. Repointing alone will not fix a sub-base problem.

Pooling water usually means the drainage falls are too shallow, have settled flat, or run in the wrong direction. Blocked or absent channel drains compound the problem. In some cases the jointing has failed, letting water sit on the surface rather than running off. A levelling survey will identify whether the falls or the drainage outlet is the issue. Patio drainage & levelling

Yes. Clay shrinks in dry summers and swells in wet winters, which moves a patio if the sub-base is not deep enough to sit below the active layer. On clay ground, a deeper compacted hardcore base, sometimes with a geotextile membrane, is needed to keep slabs stable. Tell us about your soil type when you enquire and it will be factored into the specification.

Most new patios come in at £1,400-£2,400, varying with size, material choice, and how much groundwork the site needs. Porcelain and natural stone sit at the higher end; concrete block paving tends to cost less. A site survey gives you a firm figure based on your actual garden.

A typical quote covers excavation, a compacted sub-base, bedding mortar or sand, the slabs or blocks themselves, and jointing. Edge restraints and basic falls for drainage are usually included. Any significant groundwork, such as breaking out an old patio or installing a soakaway, is normally quoted as a separate line.

The main drivers are material grade, sub-base depth, and site access. Porcelain or large-format natural stone costs more to supply and cut than standard concrete slabs. Poor ground conditions requiring deeper excavation or extra hardcore add labour and skip costs. A quote that looks high often reflects groundwork a cheaper price has left out.

Yes, excavation and spoil removal are usually charged on top of the base patio price. The extra cost depends on how deep the dig needs to go and how much material needs skipping. This is confirmed after the site visit, so there are no surprises once work starts.

Photos and measurements help narrow the range, but a firm price needs a site visit. Ground conditions, drainage falls, and access all affect the final figure in ways a photo cannot show. Tell us your garden size and what is currently down there, and we will schedule a survey and quote properly.

Yes, a patio often works better than lawn in a small garden because it gives usable, low-maintenance space year-round. Lighter-coloured slabs such as limestone or porcelain can make a compact area feel larger. Keeping the layout simple and the jointing tight maximises every square metre.

Yes, though the material choice matters. Smaller block paving or modular slabs cut to size handle curves and irregular boundaries more cleanly than large-format porcelain, which produces more waste. A surveyor can advise on the best format for your specific shape before any material is ordered.

Porcelain suits a clean, contemporary finish and resists staining well. Indian sandstone gives a warm, natural tone that suits traditional gardens. Limestone offers a cooler, more formal look. Block paving works well for a structured or driveway-adjacent style. We can schedule a survey to walk you through samples and advise on which fits your garden. See all material options

Yes, and it is often the most practical choice. New-build plots are frequently compact, level, and already stripped of topsoil, which reduces groundwork costs. Porcelain or block paving suits the clean lines of modern estate houses and requires minimal upkeep. We cover new-build gardens regularly and can schedule a survey and quote for your plot. New build garden patios

For longevity and low maintenance, a patio generally wins. Stone and porcelain do not rot, warp, or need annual treatment the way timber decking does. Decking can suit raised areas or a softer aesthetic, but in a wet climate it becomes slippery and degrades faster. A patio also tends to add more to a property’s kerb appeal.

If fewer than a quarter of the slabs are cracked or sunken and the sub-base is sound, targeted repair and repointing is usually cost-effective. Widespread sinking, crumbling mortar across the whole area, or a failed sub-base means replacement will be cheaper long-term than repeated patch repairs. A survey will tell you which applies. Cleaning, repointing & repair

Small, flat areas with simple slabs are within reach of a confident DIYer. However, getting the sub-base depth right, achieving accurate drainage falls, and cutting stone cleanly all require experience and tools most homeowners do not have. Errors at sub-base level cause sinking and cracking that cost more to fix than the original saving.

The installer marks out the area, excavates to the required depth, and compacts a hardcore sub-base, typically MOT Type 1. A sand or mortar bed is then screeded to the correct falls before any slabs go down. Skipping or rushing this groundwork stage is the most common cause of patio failure.

A straightforward patio up to around 30 square metres typically takes two to four days, including groundwork and jointing. Larger areas, complex cuts, or additional features such as steps or edging add time. Mortar and jointing compounds then need 24 to 48 hours to cure before the surface is walked on.

Drainage falls, the slight gradient that moves water away from the house, are built into every patio as standard. Where surface water has nowhere to go, a channel drain or soakaway may be needed and would be quoted separately. Ignoring drainage causes pooling, frost damage, and damp at the building line. Patio drainage & levelling

Excavated spoil and packaging should be removed or skipped before the installer leaves. The patio surface is brushed down and jointing compound cleaned off. If any mortar or cut debris lands on adjacent planting or fencing, a good installer clears it the same day. Confirm site clearance is included when you accept the quote.

Cambridgeshire winters bring sustained wet periods, so surface drainage falls alone may not be enough if your garden holds water. A channel drain at the patio edge or a soakaway connected to a run-off point is worth considering, particularly on lower-lying plots. The survey can assess the ground and advise whether additional drainage is needed.

Cambridge Patios is a service brand. We take your enquiry, schedule the survey and quote the work. We do not employ fitters or operate our own yard.

The ground conditions determine the cost. Sub-base depth, drainage requirements and damp-proof course clearance all vary by site. A quote given without a survey cannot account for what is actually there, which means the price often changes once work starts.

The installer advises on 20mm porcelain on a full mortar bed with primer slurry, Indian sandstone and limestone with sealed joints, and block paving on a Type 1 sub-base. The right choice depends on the site conditions, the falls required and the drainage layout.

Paving that has lost its falls drains back toward the house. Over time, standing water against the wall can breach the damp-proof course and allow moisture into the structure. Repointing or relevelling early is less disruptive than a full dig-out later.

Yes. We schedule surveys for properties across Cambridge and its surrounding villages, including new-build areas such as Cambourne and Northstowe as well as established neighbourhoods closer to the city centre.

The price depends on the size, the material chosen and how much excavation and base work the ground needs. A quote that lists excavation, sub-base, bedding and paving as separate lines gives a clearer picture than a single lump sum. We schedule a site survey and provide that breakdown before you commit.

Loose or cracked slabs can sometimes be lifted, re-bedded and repointed without a full replacement. The key question is whether the problem is the slab itself or the sub-base beneath it. A level check and drainage assessment will show which fix is appropriate, and how far the work actually needs to go.

Water pooling against the house can work its way under the damp-proof course over time, leading to damp inside the building. Joints that stay wet wash out faster, letting weeds establish and accelerating slab movement. A drainage correction now costs considerably less than damp remediation later.

A paved surface works well in compact rear gardens because it gives a usable, low-maintenance area that does not turn to mud. Slab size and layout affect how spacious the finished space feels, larger format slabs with tight joints tend to read as less cluttered in a small garden.

Porcelain is non-porous and will not bond to a sand bed or plain mortar without a primer slurry applied to the slab back first. Sandstone is porous and bonds more readily, but its joints need sealing to prevent water ingress and staining. The right method depends on the material, not a single standard approach.

A correctly built patio, adequate sub-base depth, proper compaction, and accurate drainage falls, should not crack or sink under normal use. The risk rises sharply if the sub-base is too shallow or the ground was not compacted before laying. Ask your installer what sub-base specification they are using before work starts.

Contact us and we will share the contact details of the contractor that did the work. Document the issue with photos and note when it appeared. Most contractors return to inspect and, where the fault is workmanship-related, rectify it. Confirm the complaints process with your contractor at the point of agreeing the quote.

The written estimate names the contractor, so you can ask them to confirm their public liability insurance cover before work begins. Any reputable patio contractor carries it. Check the certificate shows the correct trade and an adequate indemnity limit for the value of your project.