Stone Patios
Replace tired paving with natural stone that stays level, drains properly, and suits the garden for years ahead.
What Goes Wrong
The stone itself rarely causes the problem, the base work underneath it does.
Cambridge clay shrinks and swells with moisture; a shallow sub-base lets slabs sink and rock within two to three seasons.
A correctly specified granular sub-base, compacted with a plate compactor, resists clay movement and holds the bedding layer firm.
Natural stone slabs vary in thickness; using a fixed bedding depth across all of them leaves high and low spots from day one.
The bedding layer is set individually to each slabās thickness so the finished surface sits flush and level throughout.
Falls set by eye rather than level leave water pooling on the surface, which accelerates staining and frost damage to the stone.
Drainage falls are established during the bedding stage and cannot be corrected once slabs are laid, so they are planned from the start.
Without edge restraints, perimeter slabs spread outward over time, opening joints and allowing the surface to break apart from the edges inward.
Edge restraints are set along the perimeter before paving begins, keeping slabs in position and the joint pattern stable long term.
Scope of Work
From stone selection through to jointing, every stage affects how the finished patio performs.
Dense, low-porosity limestone laid on a compacted sub-base with correct drainage falls away from the house.
Sandstone and other natural stone slabs selected for surface texture, thickness, and suitability for the gardenās use.
Full excavation to the required depth, granular sub-base laid and compacted before any bedding or paving begins.
Gaps filled with jointing sand or compound suited to the stone type, with edge restraints set at the perimeter.
Local installer visits to assess ground conditions and advise on stone options.
Falls and edge restraints planned for narrow or clay-heavy gardens.
Check whether the current base can be reused or needs rebuilding.
Why Choose Us
Local knowledge of Cambridge ground conditions and a clear, itemised quote process set this apart from a general paving quote.
A site visit assesses ground conditions before pricing, so excavation depth is never guesswork.
Excavation, sub-base, bedding, and paving are quoted as separate lines so nothing is hidden in a lump sum.
The installer advises on limestone, sandstone, and other natural stone options to match the garden and usage.
Every survey accounts for how Cambridge clay behaves and specifies sub-base depth and compaction accordingly.
Falls and edge restraints are designed before work begins, not adjusted after slabs are already down.
Pricing Estimates
| Job | Typical cost | Typical size |
|---|---|---|
| Small limestone patio | Ā£1,600-Ā£3,000 | 10mĀ² |
| Standard limestone patio | Ā£2,800-Ā£5,500 | 20mĀ² |
| Large natural stone patio | Ā£5,000-Ā£9,000 | 40mĀ² |
Common Questions
Unsealed limestone absorbs water, which causes dark patches that fade as it dries. If the marks persist, the stone may have a mineral deposit or algae beginning to form. A penetrating impregnator sealer applied to clean, dry stone stops water ingress and keeps the surface looking even after wet weather.
Unsealed natural stone is porous and will absorb oil, food, and tannins from leaves fairly quickly. Sealing with a penetrating impregnator significantly reduces absorption. Lighter-coloured stones such as limestone show marks more readily than darker sandstone, so sealing is especially worthwhile on pale finishes.
Sealed limestone needs a brush down and a rinse a few times a year. Re-seal every two to three years depending on foot traffic and weather exposure. Unsealed stone needs more frequent cleaning to prevent algae and staining. Repointing joints every several years keeps the surface stable and prevents weed growth.
Limestone is a sedimentary stone with a smooth, consistent surface and a calm, pale tone. Sandstone has more visible grain and colour variation, from buff to rusty brown. Granite is harder and denser, needing less sealing. Slate splits into thinner layers and suits contemporary designs. Each stone has a different porosity, texture, and maintenance profile.
Natural stone is denser and longer-lasting than most concrete paving slabs, and each piece has unique veining and tone that concrete cannot replicate. Concrete slabs are cheaper upfront and need less sealing. Natural stone costs more to supply and lay but typically holds its appearance and structural integrity for longer. Compare porcelain as an alternative.
It depends on whether the existing base is level, stable, and well-drained. A concrete sub-base in good condition can sometimes be used, but a compacted MOT Type 1 sub-base is the standard for natural stone. The survey checks what is already down and confirms whether it needs breaking out or can be built on.
Limestone slabs come in a range of sizes and can be cut to fit awkward shapes, steps, or borders. Larger format slabs suit open rectangular spaces; mixed-size patterns work well in irregular layouts. A survey of the space lets the installer plan the slab layout to minimise cuts and waste.
Limestoneās pale, neutral tones suit brick, render, and timber equally well. Warmer buff or grey tones are available to complement different house styles. Bringing a sample slab against your exterior wall before committing is the most reliable way to check the match in natural light.
Describe the garden, what is down there now, and how it drains. We will schedule a site survey and quote excavation, sub-base, bedding, and paving as separate lines.