Patio Installation
A stable, level outdoor surface that drains properly and stays that way for years.
What Goes Wrong
The surface is only as good as what sits beneath it. These are the failure modes that a proper installation avoids.
Laying blocks over an existing surface leaves the old, unstable base in place, causing sinking and edge spread within a few seasons.
The existing surface is broken out and the ground excavated to the correct depth for sub-base, bedding layer and block thickness.
A sub-base tipped in one pass and not compacted in stages will settle unevenly, pulling blocks out of level and opening joints.
Sub-base is compacted in layers using a plate compactor, with Cambridge clay requiring particular care to prevent later settlement.
Blocks laid without checking the fall can drain water back towards the house, risking damp-proof course breach and foundation damage.
The fall is set and verified after compaction so surface water runs clear of the house and clears the damp-proof course.
Blocks without haunched edging restraints spread outward over time, leaving gaps at the border and destabilising the whole surface.
Edging restraints are haunched in concrete before any blocks are placed, holding the perimeter firm for the life of the patio.
Scope of Work
From ground preparation through to jointing, each stage is part of a single quoted job.
Ground excavated to correct depth, sub-base laid and compacted in stages for a stable, settled foundation.
Sand bedding screeded to a consistent level, blocks laid to pattern and compacted to bring the surface true.
Fall set away from the house and checked against damp-proof course clearance before jointing begins.
Edging stones haunched in concrete around the perimeter to hold the block layout in place long-term.
Jointing sand brushed into gaps and locked in with a final compaction pass to complete the surface.
Full dig-out and lay on bare or cleared ground.
Break-out of worn or sinking surface, then full reinstall.
Installation after construction, accounting for builder waste below topsoil.
Why Choose Us
Local knowledge, clear quoting and accountability from survey through to finished surface.
Cambridge clay and new build sites need specific sub-base decisions, and the survey covers both.
A site visit checks ground conditions, levels and drainage before a price is agreed.
Excavation, sub-base, bedding and paving are quoted as separate lines, not a single lump sum.
Builder waste or poor drainage found during the survey is reported before work starts, not after.
Pattern, colour and edging are chosen to suit the house and the rest of the outdoor space.
Pricing Estimates
| Job | Typical cost | Typical size |
|---|---|---|
| Small block paved patio | £1,200-£2,200 | 10m² |
| Standard block paved patio | £2,000-£4,000 | 20m² |
| Large block paved patio | £3,500-£7,000 | 40m² |
Common Questions
Sinking or unevenness almost always points to a failed sub-base. If the compacted hardcore or sand bed beneath the blocks was too thin, poorly compacted, or laid over soft ground, it shifts under load over time. Tree roots, poor drainage, and frost heave can also disturb the base. The blocks themselves rarely fail, it is what is underneath that moves.
If the damage is limited to a few sunken or cracked blocks with a sound sub-base beneath, repair is usually the right call. If the sub-base has failed across a wide area, or the blocks are badly weathered throughout, a full relay gives a more lasting result. A site survey will show which applies to your patio. See patio cleaning, repointing and repair for smaller fixes.
Partial repairs work well when the problem is confined, a localised sunken area, a damaged edge, or a handful of broken blocks. If the sub-base failure runs across most of the patio, patching one section often means another sinks shortly after. A survey identifies where the damage stops so you only replace what genuinely needs it.
Block paving suits most residential properties. It comes in a wide range of colours, sizes, and laying patterns, herringbone, stretcher bond, basket weave, so it can match a traditional brick house or a more contemporary garden. The main consideration is ground conditions and drainage, which a survey will assess before any work starts.
Block paving can be matched to your brickwork colour or contrasted deliberately as a design feature. Choosing the right block size, colour, and laying pattern makes a significant difference to how the finished area reads alongside your house and boundaries. Options are shown at survey, before you commit to a material.
Yes. Block paving handles seating areas, connecting paths, and general foot traffic well. Its interlocking structure distributes load evenly, making it durable underfoot. For paths specifically, see garden paths and walkways for how the same material is specified in narrower runs.
Laying over an existing surface is rarely advisable. It raises the finished level, which can cause drainage problems and conflict with door thresholds or damp-proof courses. It also hides any sub-base issues that will eventually push through. Lifting the old material and preparing the ground properly gives a far more stable result.
The survey checks the existing ground level, drainage fall, soil type, and any services buried beneath the area. Boundaries, access for machinery, and proximity to the house damp-proof course are also assessed. Getting these details right before excavation starts prevents costly changes mid-job.
Describe the garden, what is down there now and how it drains. We will schedule a survey and quote the work properly.